We were to meet at 9:30 at the Republic Square in downtown for a four hour walking tour. After the long day before some were a little concerned. Iracema has a large spread for breakfast - fruit, pastry, juices, cereal, on and on. It was laid out like a feast. Luis had tied up in traffic because of an early morning rain, so are already running late but we couldn't just walk away from her lovely breakfast. At this point we are getting to know each other pretty well and the breakfast was lively, but yes,we are late. We took the subway and a transfer - the subways were packed, not as bad as Tokyo, but close. Everyone gave us old timers a seat - what polite people.
When we got to the meeting point - everyone was there - we were 30 minutes late and the last to arrive. I was sure hoping there would be someone who would be later than us. We started the tour with 21 people in the crowded downtown streets of this vast city. The Guide Karen was an Asian heritage Brazilian of which there are many including Luis. It was slow in the beginning but she livened it up with her cheerfulness. But everything she mentioned would have been overlooked as nothing but she made it sound important. My back was now hurting on and off with jolt of pain happening at any moment and my leg would buckle. Thank goodness I had my cane chair. She would stop and talk and I would whip out that chair and have a seat. The tour was fun and it looked like everyone was enjoying it. We finally made it to the Municipal Theatre (Opera House) where a protest against the government was going on. Watch you things, this place is loaded with thieves, we stopped into the elegant coffee shop in the theatre for an espresso and a bathroom break. An espresso costs about $2 here - not like home.
Next we went to the old city center park which is really an old valley with a river bed. The river is now channelized underground throughout the city. Below we saw the police shaking down some thieves in an action meant for TV. This is a really lively part of town and herding 21 people through the city is really something to behold, but it worked. Details about all of the buildings that would have normally been ignored as fascinating. The Italians had invested heavily Brazil, but during WWII - it was nationalized and created some interesting tales.
Next the cathedral where- surprise - this is a hotbed of pickpockets. As the group looked at the cathedral I looked at our back to ward off the thieves as I listened. It was beautiful and a mass was going on. I didn't have time to do a tribute to my mother an sister and Maria, but I did kneel and give the sign of the cross. Time for some coffee and something to eat at the bakery. This Bakery is not what we normally see. It is a bustling cafeteria where you take a numbered chit when you enter and they put your charges on it. You have to present this to exit - everyone gets one. An interesting concept - very efficient and very common here.
Now we are on the move and down to their wall street and the early Catholic buildings and finally to lunch. This place is designed to make you eat too much with lots of meat as usual and Capicara the distilled sugar liquor - the National drink of Brazil. Now everyone is letting their hair down. Then I get the text that we have just charged $752 at Sao Paulo motors - what? Our card number was stolen the first time Zosia used it at the Coffee Museum cafe. I had to spend 20 minutes calling the US to get them to stop payment and have the card disabled while everyone was loading up at the buffet. But what a wonderful system that I receive a text each time we use the card overseas. If I did not have that text it could have used hundreds of times over the next couple of weeks and it would take a long time to unravel that mess. But, having dealt with that disaster, it was time for frivolity and a couple of National drinks. There were more than happy to have me drink one after another - what friendly people.
For those not familiar with the friendship force, we pay a certain amount to their club and then all is taken care of while here except for taking our host out to dinner once and personal gifts. We paid their club $300 for seven days and it includes the buses, entry fees, parties and meals - everything. With our tipsy heads at 4:15 we took the metro back to Santana (our section of the city) and Iracema picked us up. Time for a nap.
This evening Iracema treated us to the symphony and it was amazing. Normally I fall asleep at the symphony but this was elegant and magnificent. The orchestrate must have been a complete one because it was 72 pieces - 8 cellos, 8 bass strings, 24 violins, 24 brass and woodwinds, 5 percussion and two harps. wow. Then they were added at the second act with a grand pianist from Germany - very famous. Zosia came out saying we should perhaps drop one of our theatre season tickets and get season tickets to the Austin Symphony. I would say she was impressed.

The concert hall was was the old train station beautifully converted retaining much of its 19th century grandeur. The intermission was wonderful where people bough chits in one place for food and drinks at various stations.People were eating dinner during intermission. And the concert started at 9:00 - can you imagine a concert attended by older people in Austin starting at 9:00? And having dinner at 10:20 during intermission. Yong people, yes, but older people, no. As I looked over the audience, what did I see - first of all - no one was asleep. And all of the faces were pretty pink, very unusual for such a diverse population. Another thing that struck me was that two blocks away we passed a big gathering of people in the street, perhaps a couple hundred, many look homeless. Our host said this was sad as this is the crack cocaine group controlled by the police. Yes there is a lot of destitute people on the street in Sao Paulo. How does one control this in a city this large.

Iracema drives us most of the time and what a driver she is - she makes up her own rules and I am always careful to buckle my seat belt even in the back seat. Red lights are often a little pink, bus lanes are fair game,and stop signs mean slow. But her car has no dents so this must be OK here. On the way home she said she was hungry and we should get pizza. I was worried about the early morning the next day, but we stopped for pizza not far from her home at midnight. I said I would only have a beer, but when that delicious pizza arrived, I ate my share. So at home at 1:00 with a full belly and to bed, we need to get up at 7:00. Here is Zosia, Iracema, Luis and Joseph having midnight pizza.